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1 Jan 2025

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(L) Goldfish in Love, Bustier tulle gown with Peranakan beaded bustline and studded with Swarovski pearls.
In collaboration with artist Justin Lee.
 

     (R) Whimsical Swallows -Swarovski studded Silk Organza  Cocktail Dress with Peranakan beaded collar and 
                                    Peranakan embroidered skirting. In collaboration with artist Susan Ong. 

Eternity by Fuchsia Lane, 2010

Developing Peranakan Artistry in
Fuchsia Lane

Fuchsia Lane’s design narratives are constantly evolving to imbue fresh meaning to modern Nanyang fashion, which is not limited to Peranakan influences but encompasses the multi-culturalism Singapore is known for, which will make heritage hip and interesting both locally and internationally.

Peranakan Artistry is an essential part of Nanyang fashion and culture which I have always been smitten with due to fond childhood memories spending my school holidays in an eclectic Peranakan mansion in Penang with my grandparents.  

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A Fuchsia Lane bolero featuring cut out embroideries done by Peranakan artisan from Malacca, 2009 

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Peranakan beaded samples made for the Godlfish in Love bustier cocktail gown (right) for Eternity by Fuchsia Lane,2009 

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FL Artisans at work producing gowns that are works of Art for the Eternity by Fuchsia Lane, 2009

Based on the artist sketch (top),
grid prepared(mid) for Peranakan beading of a collar (bottom) for a cocktail gown 

Close up of a Peranakan beaded collar for our Whimsical Swallows Cocktain gown on the right.  

Whimsical Swallows -Swarovski studded Silk Organza  Cocktail Dress with Peranakan beaded collar and Peranakan embroidered skirting, Eternity by Fuchsia Lane 2010

We started incorporating Peranakan Artistry into Qipaos and modern silhouettes since the early days when we started and in a big way during our 2010 Eternity Showcase where we collaborated with 3 local artists to incorporate their artwork on gowns using Peranakan beading and embroideries. I think Peranakan Artistry should not be restricted to just traditional wear as demand for them is limited due to our current lifestyle needs. In 2009, we spent a year going to Malacca, Penang and Kuala Lumpur to find artisans who were willing to experiment Peranakan beading and embroidery on gowns as we could not find any from Singapore. 

 

Creating Qipaos with Peranakan artistry is Fuchsia Lane’s way of paying homage to the motifs, designs, craftsmanship, objects and colours that Peranakans adore, which is Chinese in origin but assimilated to the cultures of Malay and the fine tastes of Europeans then.

 

Research has shown that while bead work and embroidery may be regarded as authentic handicrafts of the Straits Chinese, the rest of the cultural objects which were traditionally associated with the Straits Chinese way of life, such as porcelains, furniture, jewellery and architecture were previously made by artisans of non-Straits Chinese, tailored to their requirements and specifications.

 

Nonya embroideries while borrowing from Chinese techniques, possess a certain freshness and originality, as they did not slavishly imitate the Chinese motifs and designs. The Nonyas created distinctive types of needlework which are at once Chinese in origins but Straits Chinese in character and expression. 

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Sulam is a Malay word for embroidery on Kebayas. Such time-consuming embroideries are distinctive of their cut outs lace work at the hems of the Kebaya. With the advent of technology and the passing of time, it is sadly challenging to find people who can devote the focus and time in reproducing these artworks. 

 

​Nevertheless, it is a pity to let such a colourful culture disappear in the annals of time. Fuchsia Lane explores a different way of presenting Peranakan Artistry with a combination of methods working hand in hand with our Korean hanbok artisans, to reproduce the effect for a contemporary global audience, with a demanding lifestyle very much different from those a century ago.

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In 2017, I chanced upon beautiful hanboks with stunning embroideries displayed in the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. I then went 4 times to Korea to find artisans to work with to develop Peranakan embroideries. After much perseverance and sharing of the Peranakan culture, we manage to find  Hanbok artisans to work with us who also incorporated Korean artistic influences when embroidering the motifs we created into our garments. They themselves learning about Peranakan style embroidery. Talk about a cross-culture exchange.  

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Nanyang fashion has a rich artistic legacy, and it can only evolve by embracing contemporary influences from around the world. Much like a stew requiring multiple layers of flavour to be added, each adding onto the base to form a rich and robust unique flavour, we seek inputs from others’ interpretation of Nanyang Fashion to build upon itself, especially people outside of Southeast Asia. We are happy to explore a unique style that melds Korean and Peranakan Artistry in Fuchsia Lane designs, together with the rest of influences that I grew up with like my love of fairy tales, ballet and precious porcelains.    

 

It is hoped that Qipaos with Peranakan artistry will give a refreshing take on Qipao, while outfits with Peranakan artistry will pique people’s interest in the beautiful Straits Chinese culture and appreciate the relevance in today’s world.

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Happiness Peonies, Cashmere Wool Gown with embroidered Happiness detail & 
sewn with embroidered peonies & black Swarovski pearls.
In collaboration with artist Justin Lee. Eternity by Fuchsia Lane 2010 

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 Shorts embroidered with motifs inspired by Peranakan Porcelain ( Kam Cheng), A Wild Peranakan Dream 2022

Qipao with cut out embroideries of

tropical florals by Korean artisan,

2024

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Qipao collar embroidered with motifs inspired by Peranakan Porcelain (Kam Cheng), 2024

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Fuchsia Lane Dress with lace applique, 2016 

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Silk outer with bow and embroidered sleeves & bustier dress,
Seoul Beautiful Collection 2018

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Qipao with cut out embroideries by Korean artisan, Yanxi Meets Peranakan Collection 2018

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A FL Qipao featuring Peranakan type

embroideries done by Korean hanbok 

artisans, 2018

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Qipao with cut out embroideries by Korean artisan, Yanxi Meets Peranakan Collection 2018

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Strapped crepe top and pants with Peranakan like embroideries by Korean artisan, A Wild Peranakan Dream, 2022

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Peranakan Embroideries by Korean Artisan, 2022

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FL Silk Mask w embroidered peonies

and leaves inspired by Peranakan

Porcelains (kam cheng), 2020

Close up of embroidered Swiss voile

bolero in black, A Wild Peranakan

Dream 2022,

Embroidered Swiss voile

bolero and draped skirt

with bow inspired by

sarong, A Wild

Peranakan Dream 2022

 FL signature Qipao featuring 

embroidered Phoenix

inspired by Peranakan

Porcelains for

Yanxi Meets

Peranakan 2018

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Embroidery sketch of

Phoenix inspired by

Peranakan Porcelains for 

FL signature

Qipao (left), Yanxi Meets

Peranakan 2018

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Love Birds, Satin tulle pleated gown with Peranakan beaded bustier & straps. The beaded bustier featuring the artwork was done freehand and took a Peranakan artisan 3 months to do it!
Also sewn with 250 embroidered florals and pink Swarovski pearls.  
In collaboration with artist Justin Lee. Eternity by Fuchsia Lane 2010 

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Silk over prints shirt with colourful

embroidery, The Peony Pavilion,2023

Close up of silk overlay over prints shirt with colourful embroidery, The Peony Pavilion,2023

Menswear pants inspired by sarong, 

Eden of Peach Blossoms 2019

One of the Minister shirts with batik trimmings & orchid embroideries created for ASEAN Tourism Forum 2017

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